12/10/15

Rakaposhi

Welcome from Gilgit after 2 weeks on magical Rakaposhi 

17.11 landing in Pindi
18.11 shopping, cargo, meetings
19.11 cargo, meetings
20.11 KKH going north to Gilgit
21.11 shopping, police station, meeting Carlos 
22.11 upper Jaglot at the edge of proper civilization 
23.11 setting BC at 3200m between Biro and Kunti Glaciers 
24.11 "walk around" checking rote options 
25.11 snow at the evening 
26.11 rest 
27.11 camp on slope, 50 m below ABC :) 
28.11 ABC set-up, rest,
29.11 team1, setting C1 at 4800m, game around Icefall, Dziubas delivering ABC - C1
30.11 game on Icefall is on, team 3 joining for a while and going down,  
1.12  morning snow shower, changing C1 location 10 m down,  team 1 going down 
2.12 team 2 & 3 working on Icefall, Dziobek winning game
3.12 team 1 speed climb new rib to ridge direct route up to 5200m and down, team 2 & 3 above icefall
4.12 team 1 heavy up same rib to ridge direct, ABCnew (mining house at 4400m ), team 2 down heavy load, team 3 at C1
5.12 team 1. C1new at 5200m, Pablo clearing ABCold 
6.12 layzy day at C1 new, Dziobek comming to C1new, Pablo transport tasks down from BC
7.12 team 1 and 2 in BC, team 3 at home :)
8.12 back in Gilgit 
9.12 Karakorum International University 
10.12 today... shopping, rest, friends and smiles, warmth, peace
 team 1 and 2 polish rasta gang,  team 3 Hunza Warriors














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